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Posted on April 17, 2006

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Posted from San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Mexico at 6:32 PM local time

Stuck in San Cristóbal

I spoke too soon. Oaxaca might have been my favorite Mexican locale a week ago - but I'm currently stuck in a place I *might* like even more: San Cristóbal de Las Casas. I ended up getting "stuck" here because I didn't want to leave. I arrived last Wednesday with the intent of staying for three days - and here I am preparing to leave after doubling the length of my stay. Last week was Semana Santa, and with all the Easter festivities being held, I decided to stick around. The climate here is also wonderfully pleasant at the moment; San Cristóbal is high in the mountains of Chiapas (7,000 feet above sea level), so the air is refreshing and cool. Despite the fact that it is now the hottest time of the year in the region, most evenings here require sleeves.

Among my favorite attributes of San Cristóbal is the number of people of Mayan descent wandering the city's markets and streets. Since I am attempting to capture a bit of Mexico with the camera, I'd been looking forward to finding pockets of indigenous people - and hadn't encountered many until arriving in Chiapas. Attire is colorful and traditional, even among the men. Unfortunately (for purposes of photography anyway), many Maya are camera-shy; they believe a part of the spirit is snatched away via a photograph. So unlike my experience in Asia, my "¿Puedo sacar una photo?" requests are very often denied. I have had a few opportunities with crowds of people around (the city's annual Spring Fair directly followed on the heels of Semana Santa) and occasionally encounter takers, but it certainly makes photographing the people a bit more challenging.

Yesterday I visited the nearby village of San Juan Chamula. Chamula is famous for the ritual ceremonies performed at the local church, but photography inside is strictly forbidden. (Though taken from outside, here's a nice view of the church with the colorful Chamula market in the foreground.) What makes the place so fascinating is that while nominally a Catholic church, most of the rituals being performed resemble traditional indigenous beliefs. Upon entering the church, one is struck by the number of candles glowing throughout. My quick count suggested there were between 4,000 and 5,000 candles burning at the time. Saints line both sides of the nave. There are no pews, no chairs inside. Fresh pine needles cover the floors, swept aside in places for candles to burn safely on the ground ("safe" being a relative term here - I'm amazed there aren't regular fires inside the church). Traditionally-clad villagers are scattered about. Most have a bottle of Coke or some other refresco in hand. Many also hold chickens they sacrifice on the spot. (A quick twist of the neck is all it takes.) A few people chant, many pray. At one point during my visit, a group of 15 or 20 wandered in humming softly, one fellow strumming a guitar. The scene is fascinating and enchanting.

I visited with a group of about a dozen tourists, and our guide explained a few of the rituals and symbols involved. Interestingly, there's even a twist involving the traditional symbol of the cross. Seen throughout the village, Mayan crosses predate the arrival of Christianity in the region. Representing the universe (relating to the shape of the Milky Way galaxy, as I understood the explanation in Español), the three deities responsible for creation in Mayan mythology, and the sacred ceiba tree which sprouted to separate the heavens from the earth, the crosses originally had nothing to do with Jesus. Today, the symbolism is mixed. Still, unlike almost every other Catholic community I've encountered in the country, the crosses in Chamula bear no figures of Christ.

Back in San Cristóbal, Semana Santa events were held throughout the week, with Thursday and Friday seeing the most activity. Among the events held was a reenactment of the crucifixion. Residents of San Cristóbal and surrounding villages packed the plaza in the Barrio de Mexicanos to witness the mock crucifixion of Christ. Though it was no Mel Gibson production, it was still a big deal. The number of people in attendance made capturing photographs tough, but I did manage to snap a few from behind the scene, among them this shot depicting the Roman executioners. (Do note the audience in the bell tower of the church - there were that many people on hand.)

Later that evening, several area congregations gathered to participate in silent processions through the city. Hooded participants carried statues of Jesus, Mary, and often one or more saints revered by the respective churches. After wandering the city's streets until darkness set in, the processions concluded by traipsing through the elaborately designed alfombras decorating the middle of Calle Hidalgo (here's another shot taken earlier in the day). Made of sawdust of various colors and bits of flowers and other plants, the carpets depicted typical Easter scenes along with messages of hope and peace. By morning the next day, no trace remained, the works of art living for just a day before being destroyed by the wandering processions.

Immediately following the activities of Semana Santa, San Cristóbal kicked off its annual Feria de la Primavera y la Paz. Festival royalty is crowned; there's a fashion show, parade, and live music of several genres. The first evening, just behind the Municipal Palace, various political effigies were hung from wires in the center of the square. Chiapas being the hub of the Zapatista movement, many of the messages called for reclamation of indigenous rights and justice for the poor. With immigration a topic of debate in the U.S. at the moment, there were mandates for Mr. Bush and the American Congress to ensure fair and humane treatment of Mexican immigrants.

So yes, there has been much going on during my stay in San Cristóbal. That, coupled with the pleasant environment, has made it one of my favorite stops thus far. (Oh, and the coffee here lives up to its reputation - I've been sampling organic Chiapan coffees every morning.) Should any of you end up in San Cristóbal in the future, a few tips: 1) Make the trip out to Chamula. The activity in the church is worth it, and the scene is one you literally must see with your own eyes. 2) A nice respite from standard Mexican food can be found in Mayambé, an eclectic restaurant serving all manner of quality Asian dishes (with free wireless Internet access to boot). 3) The popular ice cream and gelato parlor just north of the cathedral on 20 de Noviembre serves up some of the best gelato in Mexico. Sadly, I only discovered it yesterday, as it had been filled with customers whenever I'd wandered by in the past. I didn't note the name, but it's on the left side of the street as you walk away from the cathedral. Don't miss it. 4) Bring a jacket. Mine is likely to be tucked away in my bag for awhile now, but I was delighted to have to use it here...